Handbook

Contents

 

Introduction to Morocco

The Kingdom of Morocco lies just 14km from Europe, sits on the northwest edge of Africa and resides as a leading Arab nation. Both the Atlantic and the Mediterranean coasts bind Morocco, this is in addition to the beautiful mountain regions of the High Atlas, Anti-Atlas and the Rif, all these aspects make Morocco an ideal destination, besides being only seven hours direct from New York City.

Most Moroccans are Sunni Muslins of Arab, Berber, or mixed Arab-Berber descent. The Arabs invaded Morocco in the 7th and 11th centuries and established their culture there. Morocco is home as well to a Jewish community that numbers about 7,000.

Most Moroccans live west of the Atlas Mountains, a range that separates the mid coast form the Sahara Desert. Casablanca is the center of commerce and industry and the leading port; Rabat is the capital; Tangier is the gateway to Morocco from Spain and also a major port; "Arab" Fez is the cultural and religious center; and "Berber" Marrakech is a major tourist center.

Morocco's location and resources led to early competition among European powers on the African continent beginning with successful Portuguese efforts to control the Atlantic coast in the 15th century. France showed a strong interest in Morocco as early as 1830. Following recognition by the United Kingdom in 1904 of France's sphere of influence" in Morocco, policing of Morocco to France and Spain jointly. The Treaty of Fez (1912) made Morocco a protectorate of France. By the same treaty, Spain assumed the role of protecting power over th e northern and southern (Saharan) zones.

The Kingdom of Morocco recovered its political independence from France on March 2, 1956. By agreements with Spain in 1956 and 1958, Moroccan control over certain Spanish-ruled areas was restored. A constitution providing for representative government under a strong monarchy was approved by referendum on December 7, 1962.

Since Morocco attained independence, its foreign policy has been sympathetic to the West. Long-term goals are to strengthen its influence in the Arab world and Africa and to maintain its close relations with Europe and the United States. Morocco continues to play a significant role in the search for peace in the Middle East, participating in the multilateral phase of the peace talks and urging Arab moderation in the bilateral phase. Morocco also has close relations with Saudi Arabia and the Persian Gulf states, which have provided Morocco with substantial amounts of financial assistance.

Moroccans are proud to have recognized the Government of the United States in 1777. Formal U.S. relations with Morocco date from 1787, when the two nations negotiated a Treaty of Peace and Friendship. Renegotiated in 1836, it is still in force, constituting the longest unbroken treaty relationship in U.S. history. The U.S. and Morocco share key foreign policy objectives, such as promoting regional peace and development. Morocco's strategy location on the Straight of Gibraltar, its moderate and constructive positions on Middle East issues, its religious tolerance, and its opposition to communist aggression are factors contributing to harmonious bilateral relations.

 

Practical Matters

Weather
Morocco has wide daily variations in temperature. The coastal climate, though temperate, is humid. The interior is drier and warmer. The higher elevations can be cool, even in the middle of summer. In the winter, coastal temperatures are moderate.

What to wear?
In summer, light cotton clothing, a hat as well as a waterproof wind jacket. Somewhat conservative dress is recommended for both men and women. Men should avoid wearing shorts, unless at the beach, and women should avoid wearing sleeveless shirts, shorts, and short skirts. Longer skirts, and pants are more appropriate, particularly when you are outside of the major cities. Voltage
220 volts in new buildings, 110 in older ones, sometimes both - make enquiries. Power points are of the French type.

Photography
In some societies, people are uncomfortable being the subject of a tourist's photographs. It may also be forbidden to take pictures of people (particularly women), buildings, museums, etc. In particular, refrain from photographing anything that may be associated with the military. Always ask your guide or host, or the intended subject if it is permissible to take a photograph.

Be sure to bring plenty of film as it can be hard to find, and expensive. Also, remember to bring spare batteries for your camera.

It is also fun to bring a few photos of family and home to show people. Be sensitive to the conservative attitudes of the people you will meet and avoid bringing pictures of couples openly showing affection, people in swimsuits, and women in revealing clothing. It may well not be an issue, but it is better to be safe and avoid an embarrassing moment for both you and your acquaintance.

If you bring a Video Camera, you need declare it on your passport upon arrival; otherwise you will end up paying taxes at customs upon your departure. Your tour representative can help you with this.

Food
Meals in Morocco are a fun, family affair. At lunch and dinner, expect the food to arrive on one big dish, which is placed in the center of the table. You may or may not be supplied with an individual dinner plate and utensils. If not, everyone will share from the main dish. Usually, you will be served bread, which is used in place of utensils to scoop up the food.

Breakfast consists of hard-boiled eggs, bread, butter and jam, and tea. Lunch is the main meal of the day, consisting of a main dish such as couscous or tagine, fresh vegetables, fruit, soda pop or tea, and cookies or other sweets for dessert. Dinner is a scaled down version of lunch and is usually eaten late in the evening.

MECHOUI - Whole lamb with spices roasted in a special oven or on a spit.
PASTILLA - Pie of flaky pastry containing pigeon, almonds, hardboiled eggs
POULET AU CITRON - Chicken casserole spiced with salted lemons, olives, and saffron
TAGINE - Stew, usually containing lamb (mutton) with prunes and nuts, or dates and almonds; can be chicken or fish, and can also include honey, almonds and raisins. Tagine describes the distinctive earthenware dish with a conical lid that is baked in.
COUSCOUS - Granular seminola (like pasta grains) cooked and served in a mound. Eaten like rice as a base for stews or can be sweetened for dessert
KEFTA - Spicy meatballs
HARIRA - Thick creamy soup of chickpeas, dried beans, mutton or chicken often flavored with lemon and tarragon.

Mint Tea is the Moroccan national drink. It is served at all times of the day and is made with green tea, a large quantity of mint leaves and an equally large quantity of sugar. Sometimes a sprig of mint is added to the cup when it is served. Tea making for parties is a special affair, and those that do this take pride in their vocation. The tea makers will have their own tent or station where they prepare numerous pots of the beverage. The tea is not simply poured into a cup. The server starts with the pot close to the cup then raises the pot up as the tea pours, sometimes ending a several feet above the cup.

Wines

Here are some wines to look for:

 

RED WINE	WHITE WINE	ROSE
Cabernet du President	Coquillages	Gris de Boulaouane
Guerrouane	Valpierre blance de blanc
Beni Snassen	Oustalet
Valpierre	Chaudsoliel

 

Places to Visit

Agadir
Agadir is Morocco's main western seaport on the Atlantic Ocean. The name is a shortened version of Agadir n Irir", a Berber word meaning " a fortified granary".

Casablanca / Dar Beida
With an estimated population of a little over 3 million, Casablanca is the largest city in Morocco. Sixty percent of all Moroccan companies and almost every bank have headquarters here, making Casablanca the business capital of Morocco and one of the most important commercial centers in North Africa. As such, the city is also the center for foreign trade and Morocco's main industrial center where construction materials, furniture and glass products are manufactured.

Located near the capital city of Rabat, Casablanca is also the country's main Atlantic seaport with one of the world's largest man-made harbors featuring the 3,180 meter-long Moulay Youssef Jetty with fishing and fish-canning as the leading industries. The city is the site of Hassan II University, established in 1976.

The origins of Casablanca trace to the medieval town of Anfa set on a small plateau which is now one of the city's suburbs. Anfa became the capital of a Berber principality in the aftermath of the Arab invasions of the 7th and 8th centuries. The Berbers embraced Islam but quickly succumbed to heretical doctrines, setting up their own prophet and a "qur'an" in Berber language.

Fez/ Fes/ Fas (Imperial City)
The most ravishing and mystical of Morocco's imperial cities, Fez was founded in 808 AD by the great Moroccan ruler Saint Moulay Idris II. Fez became the capital and spiritual center of Morocco and the supplications of its founder were realized for a thousand years thereafter.

The city is stationed in a narrow valley against the backdrop of the Middle Atlas. It is strategically positioned on the old crossroads of caravan routes connecting the Saharan empires of Timbuktu and Takrur with the Atlantic and Mediterranean shipping lanes. Fez has remained a commercial center for much of history.

Kenitra
Kenitra lies on the Sebour River near the Atlantic Ocean between Rabat and Tangier. Marshal Louis Hubert Gonzalve Lyauteyin, Morocco's first French general established Kenitra in 1912 as a military fort to replace Larache, which had been incorporated into the Spanish Zone.

The French built a new town and an artificial harbor. In 1933 the town was renamed Port-Lyautey, after the Marshal. After independence in 1956 the port was renamed Kenitra.

Today the city is still an important naval base and major port for exporting grains, wine, citrus fruits and vegetables as well as zinc from the Midelt, and cork from the Mamora forests. The city also has textile milling, fish and tobacco processing, and fertilizer industries.

Marrakech (Imperial City)
Marrakech is the imperial city, which, at the dawn of its history, gave Morocco its name. The Berbers and the Arabs come together here, to mingle with the nomads and the mountain people. Every imaginable commodity abounds, craftsmanship flourishes, and there are palaces, hotels, restaurants, golf courses and a casino. Marrakech is the unchallenged capital of Southern Morocco.

Meknes (Imperial City)
Called the Moroccan Versailles, this imperial city was built as the Moroccan capital on a fertile plain north of the Middle Atlas, near Fez by Sultan Moulay Ismail, one of the first rulers of the Alawite dynasty that governed Morocco.

Rabat and Sale (Imperial Cities)
Set more or less in the middle of Morocco's Atlantic coastline on the left bank of the mouth of the Bou Regreg River, Rabat is Morocco's political and administrative capital and the official resident of the King. All Ministries and embassies are located in Rabat.

Apart from its governmental activities, Rabat is one of the country's main industrial centers where, among other things, textiles, processed food, and building materials are manufactured.

The city contains several of Morocco's major educational institutions, including Mohammed V University, the National Conservatory of Music, Dance and Dramatic Arts and institutions of agricultural, public administration and applied economics studies.

Tangier/ Tanger/ Tanja
Tangier has been called the Gateway to Morocco and has been designated as the country's summer capital by King Hassan II.

Overlooking the Straits of Gibraltar with a view of Spain's southern coast, Tangier is set upon a spectacular bay and has been a magnet for travelers for millennia.

Tetouan
A lovely white Andalusian city set upon the Mediterranean Se a near Tangier, it traces its origins to the 3rd century B.C. At that time it was a settlement called Tamouda which existed until 42 AD when it was destroyed by Roman armies.

When the Merinid Sultan Abu Thabit constructed a kasbah at Tetouan in 1307 AD, the Muslim city began to find its form. However, as a refuge for Barbary pirates, Tetouan drew the wrath of the Castilian King Henry III whose forces overran the city and sacked it in 1399 AD.

For a century thereafter, Tetouan went into a period of decline until coming under the Andalusian influence of refugees from Granada. From 1484 the city took on some of the rich architectural and cultural character of Muslim Spain, traces of which can still be seen today.

In 1913 Tetouan became the capital of Spain's protectorate until independence in 1956.

 

Religions in the Middle East

Man's civilization dawned in the Middle East and three monotheistic religions emerged there. Following is a brief description of Judaism, Christianity and Islam as much as is needed to be observed by tourists.

Judaism: God revealed to Moses the 10 Commandments on Mount St. Cathrine in Sinai but he was not permitted to enter the Holy Land. King Solomon built the first temple which was destroyed by the Babylonians. The First and Second Jewish Temples were built on the mount, which now is occupied by the Dome of the Rock and the Agsa Mosgue. The Babylonians destroyed the Second Temple. Jews believe that the old retaining wall on the Mount, which is called the Western or Wailing Wall, is part of the Temple. Archaeologists have reconstructed a model of the Second Temple, which you might visit. Synagogues of the Jewish people can be found throughout Israel and Palestine. We know of no special protocols for visiting Jewish synagogues that you need to observe, however from Friday at sundown until Saturday at sundown the Sabbath, or day of rest, is observed, and visitors to Jewish houses of worship may not be welcome during that time.

A respect for all religions and the people practicing them is requested from people enjoying our tours. If you have any further questions, please do not hesitate to ask us.

Christianity: Jordan, Israel and Palestine are territories of Christianity. Jerusalem, Nazareth, Bethlehem, and the Jordan Valley are principal destinations. Approximately 5% of Palestinians and Jordanians are Christians. Churches can be found throughout all the countries in the area. Syria has many famous Christian churches, and you can even hear Aramaic, the language of Christ, spoken in Ma'alula in Syria and by Orthodox Jews in Jerusalem. Since Christian protocol remains essentially the same in the Middle East as the United States, behavior rules are the same in both places.

Islam: For Muslims (Moslems), God revealed his eternal truths in Arabic through the Prophet Muhammad (Mohammed), 570-632AD, who lived in what is today Saudi Arabia. The revelations were collected as the Qu'ran (Koran). Muslims believe that the Prophet Muhammad was transported in a miraculous journey from Mecca (in modern Saudi Arabia) to Jerusalem to Heaven and then home. The Dome of the Rock commemorates the spot where he rose to Heaven and returned. After the Prophet's death, Islam was spread by his followers and eventually encompassed an area from Bosnia to southern Russia, east to China, and south to the Philippines, and west via North Africa to Spain. We therefore can find mosques (houses of worship) throughout the world as well throughout the Middle East. Many Christian churches have been converted into mosques. Some prominent examples are in Aya Sofia in Istanbul, and the Omayyad Mosque in Damascus.

When visiting a mosque, be prepared to leave your shoes with the doorkeeper. It is not necessary to tip him. Women wear a scarf to cover the hair when entering a mosque. Black and white scarves are common, but any subdued color may be used. Prayers may be in session and quiet respect is expected. Hearing the prayers chanted could be a thrilling experience. Muslims pray five times a day and they wash before praying but this is not required of visitors.

Islam follows a lunar calendar of 12 months a year, which is shorter than the solar year by eleven days. The holiest month is Ramadan (pr. Ra-ma-dan), strict Moslems fast during the hours between daybreak and sunset, and eat between sunset and daybreak. During the fast, Muslims abstain from eating, drinking, and smoking during daylight hours. Breaking the fast at the end of the day is an important event. Visitors are not expected to observe the fast, bu in consideration for those who do, please refrain from smoking or eating during the hours of the fast in public during Ramadan. You may plan to eat in hotels and restaurants as desired.

 

Going Shopping? How to Bargain Effectively

Prepare to bargain! See what a good deal you can get!

For many people in the world, there's no such thing as a Universal Product Code or price tag. The merchant sizes up the buyer, the buyer sizes up the merchant and each tries to obtain the best price.

Many Westerners dislike bargaining in foreign countries, and see it as a waste of time or, worse yet, an opportunity to be swindled. However, bargaining can be pleasant -- even fun -- if you understand the "rules."

In most places where there is bargaining, there are strategies employed on both sides that are understood to be simply that: strategies. Each side jockeys for advantage. And while there are few strategies that hold true the world over, here are some suggestions to try on your trip:

 

What to Buy in Morocco

Artisanat (traditional crafts) employ over 7% of the population crafts is the 5th most important export after phosphates, agricultural produce, oranges and fish. These crafts use local products such as cedar wood, leather, wool and vegetable dyes and are available in all the medinas where you can observe them being made.

CARPETS AND RUGS - Are the most important part of the artisanat. They are priced according to their age, place of origin and density of the knots. The most valuable and most beautiful are the Rabat carpets, which contain the greatest density of threads of any Moroccan, carpet (10,000/sq. meter). Rabat carpets and those known as 'royals' or 'orientals' are similar in design and come in rich blues and reds (indigo and poppy dyes). All other carpets are Berber made. High Atlas Berber rugs are reds and ochers; Ouarzazate are reds and blues. Some of these rugs are made of hair from the neck and hump of the camel. 15 camels make one small rug. The best place to look for Berber rugs and carpets, old or new, is the Middle Atlas and the south, where they are made.

POTTERY - The great pottery towns are Fes, Meknes, Marrakesh and Safi. Old pieces have soft colors and simple designs. In Fes and Marrakech potters can be seen working in the medinas, and the potters' quarter at Safi.

LEATHER GOODS - Sandals, babouches, saddles, bags and other utilitarian objects have always been part of the Moroccan scene. Items common to westerners are now being made.

WOODWORK - Particularly that of the soft and sweet-smelling cedar is a traditional skill. Products vary from utilitarian dishes to painted and carved chairs and chests. Essaouira is renowned fo r work in juniper (thuya) and famous for its inlaid jewel boxes, chessboards, and small tables.

SEMI-PRECIOUS STONES - The High Atlas is a treasure house of such stones including amethyst, topaz, cobalt and many others. Buy these between Marrakesh and Ouarzazate.

 

The Arabic Language in Morocco

The language of Morocco is Arabic. The spoken language is a dialect known as Maghrebi Arabic. 60% of the population is of Berber heritage, and speak Rifian, Braber or Chleuh - said to be mutually incomprehensible! Most all Moroccans speak French as a second language as well as English. Spanish is spoken around Tetouan (the old Spanish Zone). Some phrases you can use are:

 

Labas	Hi
Salaam aleikum	Peace be with you - formal salutation
Ash h'barak?	How are you?
Mezian	Very well
Shukran	Thanks (informal)
Barak'allah oufik	May the blessing of God be with you - formal thank you
Bis m'allah	Praise be to God - upon hearing good news
Insh'allah	God willing - for any future event
B'slama	Good-bye
Sidi	Sir
Lalla	Madam
Waha	Yes, OK
La	No
Mezian	Good, nice, beautiful
Chwiya	Little, small, a few
Bezzef	A lot
Kbir	Big
Sghrir	Little
Zid	More
Ma F'hemshi	I don't understand
Shnoo hada?	What is this?
Bish'hal?	How much?

 

Numbers:
1.	wa-hid	2.	ith-nain
3.	tha-la-tha	4.	ar-baa
5.	kham-sa	6.	sit-tah
7.	sa-ba-ah	8.	tha-man-I-ah
9.	tis-sah	10.	ah-sha-ra

 

The Arabic Alphabet

alif	beh	teh	theh	jim	ha	kha
dal	dhal	ra	zin	sin	shin	sad
dad	ta	dha	ain	ghain	feh	qaf
kaf	lam	mim	nun	heh	waw	yeh

 

Arab Music and Instruments

Arab Music is a unique form of music heard from the Arabian Gulf east of Saudi Arabia to the Meghreb in Morocco. Traditional or Classic Arab music is performed by percussion instruments. In recent years electric instruments, which can produce quartertones, have been introduced.

Arab music scales are not chromatic like the major and minor scales used in occidental (western) music. It is the quartertone, which makes this music so unique and expandable. Because of this quality, Arab music has a variety of scales unfamiliar to the Western ear. These scales represent a mode; a human emotion, or a feeling. Some are suitable for morning listening, some for late night. These scales are called Maqaams (positions). Some of the common Maqaams are Hijaz, Bayaat, Saba, Siga and Kurd, and most Arabic songs utilize several Maqaam to express the various emotions introduced in the poetry of each song.

The historic origin of this music is extremely heterogeneous. Early Arab musicians borrowed from the Egyptians, Assyrians, and Sumerians. Many of the instruments now used are direct descendents of those that appeared in wall paintings and carvings of those civilizations. Greek music theory was translated into Arabic in the 8th/ 9th century as the science of music became one of the courses of the quadrivium, and was studied by most students of the period.

Seven treatises of music theory were written by Al-Kindi (d. 874) and three have survived in print. After Al-Kindi there was a gap of about a century in documentation. Following Al-Kindi, the great theorist Al-Farabi published his book Al-Kitaab Al-Kabeer that included detailed information on music and musical instruments of that era. Being a good mathematician and physicist, Al-Farabi was able to handle the physical bases of sounds by making valuable contributions to physiological acoustics, i.e. the sensation of tone, which was part of Greek music theory.

The following are some of the most popular instruments of Arab music:

OUD, al-'Oud (meaning, "wood"): is a highly ornate instrument made of wood with six double strings, pear-shaped body and non-fretted neck. It is plucked with an eagle feather or a pick. The 'Oud originated in Ancient Egypt and was later adopted by the Persians, who brought it to the Arabian Peninsula. The great Iraqi musician, Zeriab, introduced the 'Oud to Spain and later to Europe when he sought refuge in Andalusia.

QANOUN: al-Qanoun (meaning "rule", "law") is a descendant of the old Egyptian Harp. The form of the Qanoun is a trapezoid-shaped flat board over which 81 strings are stretched in groups of three, with 24 treble chords consisting of three chords to each note with movable frets called 'Urab. The Qanoun is placed flat on the knees of the musician: the strings are plucked with the finger or with two plectra, one plectrum attached to the forefinger of each hand plucking separate octaves.

NAY: A Persian word used to describe a single reed pipe. It is one of the oldest instruments in the Middle East. The Nay has 6 holes in the front for the fingers to play, and 1 hole underneath for the thumb. Fine, mellow tones are produced by blowing gently through the orifice of the tube while manipulating the fingers and thumbs: the force of blowing scales (Maqaams) generates octaves by utilizing Nays of various lengths.

MIJWIZ: (means dual) is a type of double reed clarinet played by breathing gently through a circular aperture and by manipulating the fingers over the holes down the front of the tube. The sound it produces may reflect a musical dialogue between two moods

DAF: also known as the Rikk, which corresponds to the English tambourine. It consists of a round frame covered on one side by goat or fish skin, with pairs of metal discs set into the frame that jingle when the hand strikes it. The sounds of this percussion instrument set the rhythm of Arab music.

TABLAH /Darbouka: is also a percussion instrument; made of clay or metal with goat or fish skin stretched over its larger opening. It is placed on the leg; beaten with both hands yielding different sounds: when beaten near t he edge it produces sounds like (tic), or near the middle the sound is more like (dom), establishing several rhythmic scales to accompany the meter of sounds produced by accompanied instruments.

 

Gift Giving in the Arab Countries

Tradition dictates that if you admire an item belonging to another person in an Arab country, it will be automatically given to you. Now technically, you may say, "That necklace on you is lovely," but not, "What a lovely necklace that is." The inference is that you admire someone's taste as a pleasant object, but not admire it because you want such a thing. Please remember to try not, either directly or indirectly, to give an Arab person cause to think you would like any of their possessions, including jewelry, clothing, souvenirs, etc. This can result in cultural misunderstanding and embarrassment. This can also cause you to be the recipient of an article that you really may not want! Please be very careful of this traditional practice in this culture. Thank you.

 

PLEASE BE FOREWARNED!

When traveling in a foreign country, you are subject to the laws of that country. In most countries of the world it is illegal to deal in drugs. If you are caught in possession of illegal drugs, you will be arrested. Drug dealing, particularly in the Arab world, is a very serious offense and the penalties are severe. Foreign jails are not pleasant places - most require that you supply your own food and necessities.

Do not rely on our consular corps to bail you out. They are there for diplomatic purposes, and some help. They do not loan money or buy tickets. In most cases they will only be able to visit you in jail to verify that you are not being treated inhumanely, receive due process of the local law, and pass messages to family.

It is reported that AIDS is widespread throughout the world. We urge you to take all precautions in this regard.

Removing antiquities from most countries is not allowed any longer.
Do not rely on the advice of the seller of antiquities.
If you plan to buy antiquities, check with proper authorities.

We would like you to abide by the laws of the countries we visit and have a fun time while you are there.

Thank you.

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