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Handbook

Contents

Introduction to Syria

Syria, known as the Cradle of Civilization, boots two cities older than history itself. Both, Aleppo and Damascus vie for the title of oldest, continuously inhabited city in the world. Many human developments trace their roots back to Syria, include such accomplishments are metallurgy, the first written alphabet, agriculture, urban development, and establishing trade routes between east and west.

Mountains, plains, Mediterranean coastline, the life-giving Euphrates River, all are but a few of the natural features marking this diverse and fascinating country. Kurds, Assyrians, Circassians, Arabs, Armenians, Palestinians, and Druze inhabit this crossroads of cultures and continents. From the development of the earliest civilizations, which brought us the first alphabet and records of bookkeeping in the ancient world, to defender of the eastern Mediterranean during the Crusades, Syria has much to offer visitors.

Explore ancient cities such as Palmyra, and hear the story of Queen Zenobia, who dared (and succeeded for a time) to conquer parts of the Roman Empire. When at last the Romans were able to regain the lands lost to Zenobia, they were so fascinated by the mighty Arab queen that they took her back to Rome in gold shackles as a prize of conquest.

Syria has been the subject of numerous conquerors and the perpetrators of almost as many conquests. Damascus was once the capital of the Islamic Arab Empire, and going even further back in time, the ancient mariners of Syria ruled trade routes of the Mediterranean. During the Roman period, Damascus was one of the ten most important cities, and enjoyed special favor during the Syrian dynasty of Roman Emperors.

In most recent history, Syria has been embroiled in internal struggles in its search for a modern identity, and its conflict with neighboring, Israel. Once known as Greater Syria, which encompassed modern-day Lebanon and Syria, the Syrian Arab Republic is a relatively y oung country. It became independent of the French Mandate on April 17th, 1946, setting its current borders, excluding Lebanon, which became a separate country at that time.

Since that time, continued economic and political pressures have led to bouts of unrest and military coups. The final coup came in 1970 when Defense Minister Hafez Al-Assad ousted the leadership and was subsequently elected president in 1971. He was re-reelected as Syriaís president in each consecutive election since then. Economic problems still plague the country, but political unrest has been kept to a minimum. Assadís legacy was not one of prosperity, but of stability.

Syria has been the last holdout in signing a peace agreement with Israel. While Lebanon also has yet to do this, Lebanon has agreed that it will not sign any agreement with Israel until Syria does. The dispute between Israel and Syria is over the Golan Heights, a plateau overlooking the Sea of Galilee, seized and occupied by Israel. The Golan Heights continues to be the middle of an international dispute.

As much as the US State Department would like to portray Syria as a haven for terrorists, riddled with instability, and so on, the truth of the matter is that travel is very safe in this country. Tourists are most welcome, and the rewards of taking the time to visit this country are tenfold.

Practical Matters

Weather
Syria has a moderate Mediterranean climate. Temperatures in autumn and spring range between the mid 60ís and mid 70ís, the mid 90ís in summer, and 40ís to 50ís in the winter. Winter is generally moderate but wet in the coastal region and cold inland: summer is hot and dry inland, hot and humid on the coast. Winter clothing is recommended between October and May, and summer clothing between May and September.

What to wear?
Although the country is primarily Muslim, people generally dress according to their own preferences. In fact, many Syrian women and men wear western-style clothing. Veils and headscarves are not required for women, however it is recommended that visitors dress in non-revealing clothing as a courtesy to the somewhat conservative climate of the Syrian culture.

When visiting a mosque, women are required to cover their heads with a scarf, so bring a scarf that will stay on your head easily-silk scarves have a tendency to slop off without you even knowing it.

Business Hours
Friday is the normal rest day, but some businesses run by Christians close on Sundays. Government offices are open from 8 AM to 2:30 PM. Private businesses often close during the day from 2 or 3 PM to 5 or 5:30 PM. Muslim stores are open every day, except Tuesday, at the following times: from 8 AM to 6 PM in summer (April 1 to October 30) and to 4 PM during the rest of the year. The National Museum is open from 9 AM to 6 PM in summer and from 8 AM to 4 PM during the rest of the year.

Money
The Syrian pound is the local currency and often referred to as a lira. One pound or lira is divided into 100 piasters. It is a good idea to carry small denominations and coins as merchants rarely have adequate change.

Foreign currency and travelerís checks can be exchanged at Damascus Airport, at the frontier posts, in the larger hotels, and at banks (normally open from 8:30 AM to 1 PM). You must show your passport to exchange money at these places.

Please note that there are no ATMs (automated Teller Machines) in Syria. There are a lot of internet Cafes (places with access to the internet) in the major cities all over Syria.

Photography
In some societies, people are uncomfortable being the subject of a touristís photographs. It may also be forbidden to take pictures of people (particularly women), buildings, museums, etc. In particular, refrain from photographing anything that may be associated with the military. Always ask your guide or host, or the intended subject if it is permissible to take a photograph.

Be sure to bring plenty of film as it can be hard to find, and expensive. Also, remember to bring spare batteries for your camera.

It is also fun to bring a few photos of family and home to show people. Be sensitive to the conservative attitudes of the people you will meet and avoid bringing pictures of couples openly showing affection, people in swimsuits, and women in revealing clothing. It may well not be an issue, but it is better to be safe and avoid an embarrassing moment for both you and your acquaintance.

If you bring a Video Camera, you need declare it on your passport upon arrival; otherwise you will end up paying taxes at customs upon your departure. Your tour representative can help you with this.

Food

The food from Syria derives from subtly blended flavors of parsley, mint, cinnamon, allspice, yogurt, lemon, olive oil, bulgar whet, tahini (ground sesame seeds) eggplant, various beans, and rice. Lamb, goat, chicken, and fish are the main meats served. Breads of all kinds, shapes, sizes and flavors can be found in shops, restaurants, homes, and street vendors. (However it is recommended that you do not buy food from street vendors)

Breakfast usually consists of bread with olive oil and spices (zaítar) for dipping, white cheese made from goat's milk, hard-boiled egg, cucumbers, tomatoes, and black olives. In hotels, Western-style buffet breakfasts can be found.

The noontime meal is the main meal of the day. Several dishes may be served along with bread, rice, sliced vegetables. Some of the more popular ones are:

mezza: "a little bit of everything" ñ appetizers
shourba: soup
hummous bi tahini: a sauce, (can be for dipping), made of garbanzo beans, olive oil, tahini, lemon
baba ghannouj: roasted eggplant, mashed and combined with hummous ingredients (see above)
laban: yogurt
kibbeh: ground and finely pounded lamb. Fried, boiled, grilled --it can be cooked 100 different ways
tabbouleh: "parsley salad," containing bulgar wheat, lemon juice, olive oil, tomatoes, and sometimes cucumbers and mint.
khoubiz: bread, similar to pita.
sfiha: "Middle East pizza"
falafel: croquettes made of finely ground garbanzo beans and flavorings, eaten in bread like a sandwich with chopped lettuce and tomatoes
fatayer sbanikh: triangular shaped spinach pies
riz: rice
batata: potatoes

Desserts
Desserts are usually very sweet. Pastries made of walnuts, almonds, pine nuts, or pistachio nuts, covered with rose or orange-flavored lemon/sugar syrup flavored are popular. A famous example of this type of desert is Baklawa.

knafi jibni: shredded pastry with a type of cottage cheese
ma'amoul b'jowz: walnut or date-filled cakes

Thick, highly sugared coffee is prepared individually and drunk after dinner. Sweet tea is also consumed along with various soda pops particularly orange-flavored.

The evening meal is usually a lighter meal similar to an American lunch.

Liquor and Wine
Arak is an anise-flavored liquor similar to Greek ouzo and Turkish raki. It is always mixed with water which turns the drink milky white. It is consumed with salted nuts, toasted and salted chickpeas, and pumpkin seeds. Beer is available in hotels and restaurants. Western-style liquor (spirits) can be bought in hotels and is expensive.

Visiting a Private Home
When visiting someone's home, you might find the following routine:

Upon arriving, you will be given something to drink -- probably orange juice or orange drink, or soft pop. This will eventually be followed by solid food with sweet tea afterward. There may be more visiting. You will be served small cups of coffee. This is the signal that the visit is over. To be polite, do not linger after coffee is served.

Places to Visit

Many cities and villages started out on hilltops where the population felt safe. The citizenry would go down the hill daily to farm crops, and animals would be brought in to the safety of the walls. Thus, many cities you will visit have ìcitadelsî, old forts and cities that were the original refuges for the early settlers. As the population grew,. The People began to build houses and shops outside the city walls. Today you will see large inhabited area surrounding the original citadel. . Look for the old cities when you visit some of these fascinating places.

Do you know how to tell the difference between an Arab city and a Greek city? The Greeks built cities like ours with straight streets. Arab cities have streets that curve, and the buildings abut the sidewalk, with upper stories overhanging, in some cases almost enclosing the street. With this design, it guarantees that at any time of the day, you will probably find some shade. Look for this architectural style in the old sections of the cities you visit.

Aleppo
The most visible landmark in Aleppo is the Citadel, perched atop a plateau in the center of the Old City. Surrounded by a moat, the Citadel is a testament to Arab military architecture. Enter through the main gate and travel back in time to the Crusades and beyond. Visit the Throne Room, Ibrahimís Mosque, and wander the compoundís alleyways, bathhouse, and courtyards. Be sure to stop at the museum where items uncovered during restoration are on display.

The Souq al- Attarin is miles of covered passageways filled with shops offering all kinds of wares. The souq is at the foot of the Citadel, and the passageways are arranged in somewhat of a grid pattern, although they can feel labyrinthine as you wander through, losing track of where you are! You may enter through a gate on the road that surrounds the citadel, plunging into shadow as you head down the gently sloping passageway. The other main entrance is next to the Great Mosque, where the road leading up to the souq is open and lined with shops, then after one turn you are in the maze of corridors with the light of the street left behind you. Here you will encounter merchants that sell scarves, kaffeiyehs, wood boxes, and table clothes, coffee, perfume, spices, and more. Watch out for the donkeys loaded with merchandise and carts being pushed through the narrowing passageways as they transport goods around the souq.

Aleppo is the shopperís paradise. Throughout the city there are various shopping areas where you can buy fresh fruits and vegetables, olive oil soap, house wares, sweets, and more.

Other places to visit in Aleppo are the museum, the Baron Hotel where Agatha Christie spent many an evening writing her mysteries, the mental hospital that used the soft sounds of water fountains as therapy for its patients, the numerous khans, the Great Mosque, and the Armenian quarter-Azzazzia, to name but a few.

Azem Palace
In the heart of the Old City, Azem Palace was built in 1749 by Assad Pasha al-Azem, Ottoman Governor of Damascus. The grounds have beautiful gardens, and the palace itself houses a museum. The interior of the palace, lush with multicolored stone fountains, and fragrant flowers, is in contrast to the dull mud brick exterior of the building.

Bosra
Bosra is a well-preserved black basalt city with the larges Roman amphitheater in the world. The amphitheater could hold 15,000 people, and could be emptied of all those people in five minutes. The amphitheater is still in use today as it hosts an annual music and dance festival.

Bosra became one of the leading Nabatean (the builders of Petra in Jordan) cities before becoming the capital of the Roman province of Arabia in 106 AD.

Damascus
In the Street Called Straight, you will see the house where St. Paul (Saul of Tarsus) escaped through the second floor window in a basket, escaping persecutors who wanted to kill him after he had his vision of faith. The Church of St. Paul is at the site where he escaped, and is located very near the old city walls. There are many historical and religious sites such as this, which are of interest to Christians and Muslims alike in this ancient city.

Stroll through the original shopping mall in the Souq Al-Hammadiyya. Almost everything is for sale here: daily household items such as soap and cleaning utensils, to handmade silk brocades and wooden boxes inlaid with mother of pearl. The sights, smells, and sounds that will bombard your senses are worth the visit.

One of the exits from the souq brings you out to the Omayyad Mosque. The mosque has three minarets and is unique in its architecture. The site has always been dedicated to worship. Originally, it was a temple to Hadad, the Aramean god of the ancient Syrians. During the Roman era it was converted to a temple to Jupiter. If then became the Church of John the Baptist. When Islam spread throughout the region, Muslims and Christians prayed side by side at the church. In 705 AD, when Damascus was the capital of the Arab Islamic Empire, the Omayyad Caliph al-Walid ibn Abdul Malek negotiated with the Christians to obtain all of the church and convert it into a mosque. He granted them land and built them another church as part of the bargain. Inside the mosque are a shrine and the tomb of John the Baptist.

While in Damascus be sure to visit the National Museum, where the front door is a restored gate from a desert fortress. Inside you will see an enormous collection of artifacts, art, and examples from the earliest civilizations. The collection of archeological treasures rivals Athensí National Museum and the British Museum in items of importance to human civilization!

Hama
Once the northern capital of the Arameans, today it is famous for its wooden water wheels, or norias. When you are close to the Orontes River, which flows through the city, you can hear the creak and groan of the giant wheels as they turn and scoop the water up to the aqueducts. Hama has been a stronghold in the defense of the Syrian interior and is home of three historically significant mosques. It is also the center for traditional arts in Syria.

Homs
Homs is the third largest city in Syria and the main industrial center in Syria. Located on the main north/south highway between Aleppo and Damascus. Homs is just east of the famous Crak des Chevaliers (Castle of the Knights). Lake Qattina is only 15 kilometers away and is the site of the first rainwater dam used in agriculture, dating back to the 2nd millennium BC. Close to the lake is Telal-Nabi Mand, where a historic battle took place between the Hittites and the Egyptians in the 13th century BC.

Lattakia
Lattakia lies on the shores of the Mediterranean and is Syriaís busiest port. The Phoenicians founded Lattakia in the first millennium BC. It has long been an important seaport and in the Hellenistic period Seleugus gave it the name of Laodica Admare in honor of his mother.

Palmyra
Palmyra was once one of the greatest cities of the Roman Empire. It enjoyed all of the benefits of being part of the Empire and flourished in trade and growth. The ruler of Palmyra, Auzania, helped Rome withstand the Persians as they attempted to encroach on /Roman Territory. He was highly regarded by the Romans, but was assassinated, leaving his second wife, Zenobia, to rule.

Queen Zenobia had other ideas about Palmyraís future, which did not include the Romans, and led a successful campaign to not only take back complete control of the city, but all of the Roman Empire. She eventually took control of all of Syria and sent armies to Egypt and Asia Minor, controlling all of the sea and land routes from the Far East. Of course the Romans, who had been embroiled in it for their own internal problems could not sit back for too long and let this happen and eventually Emperor Aurelian himself led an expedition to conquer Palmyra and take back the lands lost to Zenobia. The Romans were successful in their efforts and Zenobia was taken in chains of gold as a prisoner to Rome. The city fell to looting and destruction and eventually became deserted.

Religions In The Middle East

Manís civilization dawned in the Middle East and three monotheistic religions emerged there. Following is a brief description of Judaism, Christianity and Islam as much as is needed to be observed by tourists.

Judaism: God revealed to Moses the 10 Commandments on Mount St. Cathrine in Sinai but he was not permitted to enter the Holy Land. King Solomon built the first temple which was destroyed by the Babylonians. The First and Second Jewish Temples were built on the mount, which now is occupied by the Dome of the Rock and the Agsa Mosgue. The Babylonians destroyed the Second Temple. Jews believe that the old retaining wall on the Mount, which is called the Western or Wailing Wall, is part of the Temple. Archaeologists have reconstructed a model of the Second Temple, which you might visit. Synagogues of the Jewish people can be found throughout Israel and Palestine. We know of no special protocols for visiting Jewish synagogues that you need to observe, however from Friday at sundown until Saturday at sundown the Sabbath, or day of rest, is observed, and visitors to Jewish houses of worship may not be welcome during that time.

A respect for all religions and the people practicing them is requested from people enjoying our tours. If you have any further questions, please do not hesitate to ask us.

Christianity: Jordan, Israel and Palestine are territories of Christianity. Jerusalem, Nazareth, Bethlehem, and the Jordan Valley are principal destinations. Approximately 5% of Palestinians and Jordanians are Christians. Churches can be found throughout all the countries in the area. Syria has many famous Christian churches, and you can even hear Aramaic, the language of Christ, spoken in Maíalula in Syria and by Orthodox Jews in Jerusalem. Since Christian protocol remains essentially the same in the Middle East as the United States, behavior rules are the same in both places.

Islam: For Muslims (Moslems), God revealed his eternal truths in Arabic through the Prophet Muhammad (Mohammed), 570-632AD, who lived in what is today Saudi Arabia. The revelations were collected as the Quíran (Koran). Muslims believe that the Prophet Muhammad was transported in a miraculous journey from Mecca (in modern Saudi Arabia) to Jerusalem to Heaven and then home. The Dome of the Rock commemorates the spot where he rose to Heaven and returned. After the Prophetís death, Islam was spread by his followers and eventually encompassed an area from Bosnia to southern Russia, east to China, and south to the Philippines, and west via North Africa to Spain. We therefore can find mosques (houses of worship) throughout the world as well throughout the Middle East. Many Christian churches have been converted into mosques. Some prominent examples are in Aya Sofia in Istanbul, and the Omayyad Mosque in Damascus.

When visiting a mosque, be prepared to leave your shoes with the doorkeeper. It is not necessary to tip him. Women wear a scarf to cover the hair when entering a mosque. Black and white scarves are common, but any subdued color may be used. Prayers may be in session and quiet respect is expected. Hearing the prayers chanted could be a thrilling experience. Muslims pray five times a day and they wash before praying but this is not required of visitors.

Islam follows a lunar calendar of 12 months a year, which is shorter than the solar year by eleven days. The holiest month is Ramadan (pr. Ra-ma-dan), strict Moslems fast during the hours between daybreak and sunset, and eat between sunset and daybreak. During the fast, Muslims abstain from eating, drinking, and smoking during daylight hours. Breaking the fast at the end of the day is an important event. Visitors are not expected to observe the fast, bu in consideration for those who do, please refrain from smoking or eating during the hours of the fast in public during Ramadan. You may plan to eat in hotels and restaurants as desired.

How to Bargain Effectively

Prepare to bargain! See what a good deal you can get!

For many people in the world, there's no such thing as a Universal Product Code or price tag. The merchant sizes up the buyer, the buyer sizes up the merchant and each tries to obtain the best price.

Many Westerners dislike bargaining in foreign countries, and see it as a waste of time or, worse yet, an opportunity to be swindled. However, bargaining can be pleasant -- even fun -- if you understand the "rules."

In most places where there is bargaining, there are strategies employed on both sides that are understood to be simply that: Strategies. Each side jockeys for advantage. And while there are few strategies that hold true the world over, here are some suggestions to try on your trip:

  • 1. Before going shopping, ask a local person how much you should pay for a particular item. This primarily applies to food or household items that residents might buy frequently. Or talk to your concierge if you're interested in a specific high-ticket item. Even armed with this knowledge, however, expects to pay a little above the locals' price -- it's often a matter of pride to get a better-than-average price from a tourist.
  • 2. Offer much lower than you really want to pay. How much lower depends upon where you are and what you're buying. Generally speaking, offering a quarter to a third of the price quoted for souvenirs in most developing countries is a good start, but there are exceptions. If, for instance, you were buying a rug in Morocco, you would be foolish to offer more than a tenth the asking price (or to pay more than a fifth).
  • 3. Be polite. This is where many tourists make a mistake. Insulting the seller by saying,: "Your prices are outrageous," or "Don't try to cheat me!" won't get you very far, and reinforces negative stereotypes about Westerners.
  • 4. It's much better, in fact to humble yourself. Pick up an item you're interested in. "You like?" the merchant asks. "Yes, it's very nice." "How much you pay?" "Oh, I could never afford such an item." "Please tell me your price." "I'm afraid I'd insult you if I told you what I could pay. I can't pay what it's worth." "Go ahead, tell me how much you pay." Then you name a ridiculously low price. The merchant will counter with a price that's higher than what you said, but much lower than he might quote to other tourists. You can slowly raise your price, and he can slowly lower his; you've set yourself up well. Americans negotiate 50-50 by splitting the asking price, but this is not the rule in developing countries where less than 50% of the asking price can be obtained. Try to figure out a reasonable wholesale price and add a reasonable profit for the seller.
  • 5. Don't denigrate the merchandise. Conventional wisdom says to point out flaws or defects to get a lower price. In practice, this is a rather transparent tactic, and the fact that you're bargaining for the item at all is a pretty good indication that you consider the defect minor. If there is a flaw you can live with, the better strategy is to bargain your best price without mentioning the flaw. Then, just before you're ready to hand over the money, you "notice" it. Say that you're sorry, but you don't want it with the flaw, and start to put it back. The price will almost always come down a little further to get you to take it. (Note: This won't work if there are similar items that are in good condition.)
  • 6. Give the merchant excuses to lower his price. Say you can't afford the "normal" price because you're a student, youíre newly married, or recently divorced. You have 10 children. You must support your elderly parents. You just lost your job. You just started your job.
  • 7. Good cop, bad cop. If you and your companion spot something you want, one of you should say, in front of the merchant, "Look at this! Isn't it great?" The other should look at it with disdain, say "Put it back," and walk on. The merchant will approach the one who showed interest and encourage him or her to buy. Then, no matter what price is quoted, the answer should be, "Gee, for something that much, I'd have to ask my wife (husband)." The price will keep dropping every time you make a move to get the other spouse involved.
  • 8. Have a friend do the bargaining. Merchants can tell when you're truly hooked on an item, and will have no incentive to go lower after they've seen that gleam in your eye. But find a friend who is truly disinterested, give him a set limit to spend and wait somewhere out of sight. The friend should tell the merchant he is buying for someone else, and at a certain point in the bargaining, should tell the merchant that he simply has no authority t o go above that price. There is little a merchant can say other than "yes" or "no." He can't move your offer.
  • 9. Walk away - even out the door. Sellers may chase you down the street!

What to Buy in Syria

Most shopping will be in the large cities such as Damascus and Aleppo. Handicrafts are abundant, many of which come from the Bedouins in the outlying areas. Some things you might look for are:

  • Mother of pearl and wood inlaid boxes, furniture, and backgammon sets
  • Silver jewelry
  • Damask and brocades
  • Spices such as zaítar
  • Bedouin silver and bead jewelry
  • Galabiehs (ling Arab cloaks)
  • Keffiehs (checkered scarves, worn by men)
  • Olive oil soap
  • Khol bottles (eye liner)
  • Tribal embroidery
  • Swords
  • Woven camel hair items such as saddle bags
  • Local stamps at a stamp shop or post office
  • Always check bookstores for books and magazines you can have get at home!

Note: Please read "Please be forewarned" regarding buying antiques.

The Arabic Language in Syria

The language of Syria is Arabic. Classical Arabic is used in all official correspondence, newspapers, and TV news; however, it is rarely spoken ìon the streetî. Colloquial (local dialect) Arabic is the spoken language and varies from country to country. For example, in North Africa other languages, such as Berber and French, influence it. In Egypt, the accent and pronunciation is changed. Therefore, spoken communication can be difficult between people from different countries. In Lebanon, French and English are widely understood.

Arabic is read from right to left. We list below some common expressions in Arabic spoken in the Levant (Lebanon, Syria, Palestine, Jordan). Words are gendered, having different endings for ìmaleî and ìfemaleî.

ah-len wa sah-len: formal greeting
marhaba: hello
ma sa-laa-ma: good-bye ("Go in Peace")
sa-bah al hair: good morning
sa-bah-an-noor: good morning - response
kee-fik: how are you (feminine)
kee-fak: how are you (masculine)
nam: yes
la: no
shu-kran: thank you
af-wan: youíre welcome
wain___?: where is_____?
wain ha-mmam?: where is the bathroom?
kit-eer gha-li: too expensive
ah-roo-h he-nak___: I want to go___
dok-tor: doctor
bi kam? How much?

Numbers:
1. wa-hid
2. ith-nain
3. tha-la-tha
4. ar-baa
5. kham-sa
6. sit-tah
7. sa-ba-ah
8. tha-man-i-ah
9. tis-sah
10. ah-sha-ra

The Arabic Alphabet

alif
beh
teh
theh
jim
ha
kha
alif
beh
teh
theh
jim
ha
kha
dal
dhal
ra
zin
sin
shin""
sad
dal
dhal
ra
zin
sin
shin
sad
dad
ta
dha
ain
ghain
feh
qaf
dad
ta
dha
ain
ghain
feh
qaf
kaf
lam
mim
nun
heh
waw
yeh
kaf
lam
mim
nun
heh
waw
yeh

Music in the Arab World

Arab Music is a unique form of music heard in Arab countries from the Gulf to the Meghreb. Traditional or Classic Arab music is performed by acoustic instruments. In recent years electric instruments which can produce quartertones have been introduced.

Arab music scales are not chromatic like the major and minor scales used in occidental music. It is the quartertone, which makes this music so unique and expandable. Because of this quality, Arab music has a variety of scales unfamiliar to the Western ear. These scales represent a mode, a human emotion, or a feeling. Some are suitable for morning listening, some for late night. These scales are called Maqaams (positions). Some of the common Maqaams are Hijaz, Bayaat, Saba, Siga and Kurd, and most Arabic songs utilize several Maqaam to express the various emotions introduced in the poetry of each song.

The historic origin of this music is ext remely heterogeneous. Early Arab musicians borrowed from the Egyptians, Assyrians, and Sumerians. Many of the instruments now used are direct descendents of those that appeared in wall paintings and carvings of those civilizations. Greek music theory was translated into Arabic in the 8th and 9th centuries as the science of music became one of the courses of the quadrivium, and was studied by most students of the period.

Seven treatises of music theory appeared under the name of Al-Kindi (d. 874) and three have survived in print. After Al-Kindi there was a gap of about a century in documentation. Following Al-Kindi, the great theorist Al-Farabi published his book Al-Kitaab Al-Kabeer which included immense and detailed information on music and music instruments of that era. Being a good mathematician and physicist, Al-Farabi was able to handle the physical bases of sounds by making valuable contributions to physiological acoustics, i.e. the sensation of tone, which is part of Greek music theory.

The following are some of the most popular instruments of Arab music:

OUD, al-ëOud (meaning "wood") is a highly ornate instrument made of wood with six double strings, pear-shaped body and non-fretted neck. It is plucked with an eagle feather or a pick. The ëOud originated in Ancient Egypt and was later adopted by the Persians, who brought it to the Arabian Peninsula. The great Iraqi musician, Zeriab, introduced the 'Oud to Spain and later to Europe when he sought refuge in Andalusia.

QANOUN: al-Qanoun (meaning "rule", "law") is a descendant of the old Egyptian Harp. The form of the Qanoun is a trapezoid-shaped flat board over which 81 strings are stretched in groups of three, with 24 treble chords consisting of three chords to each note with movable frets called ëUrab. The Qanoun is placed flat on the knees of the musician: the strings are plucked with the finger or with two plectra, one plectrum attached to the forefinger of each hand plucking separate octaves.

NAY: A Persian word used to describe a single reed pipe. It is one of the oldest instruments in the Middle East. The Nay has 6 holes in the front for the fingers to play, and 1 hole underneath for the thumb. Fine, mellow tones are produced by blowing gently through the orifice of the tube while manipulating the fingers and thumbs: the force of blowing scales (Maqaams) generates octaves by utilizing Nays of various lengths.

MIJWIZ: (means dual) is a type of double reed clarinet played by breathing gently through a circular aperture and by manipulating the fingers over the holes down the front of the tube. The sound it produces may reflect a musical dialogue between two moods

DAF: also known as the Rikk, which corresponds to the English tambourine. It consists of a round frame covered on one side by goat or fish skin, with pairs of metal discs set into the frame that jingle when the hand strikes it. The sounds of this percussion instrument set the rhythm of Arab music.

TABLAH /Darbouka: is also a percussion instrument; made of clay or metal with goat or fish skin stretched over its larger opening. It is placed on the leg; beaten with both hands yielding different sounds: when beaten near the edge it produces sounds like (tic), or near the middle the sound is more like (dom), establishing several rhythmic scales to accompany the meter of sounds produced by accompanied instruments.

Gift Giving in the Arab Countries

Tradition dictates that if you admire an item belonging to another person in an Arab country, it will be automatically given to you. Now technically, you may say, ìThat necklace on you is lovely,î but not, ìWhat a lovely necklace that is.î The inference is that you admire someoneís taste as a pleasant object, but not admire it because you want such a thing. Please remember to try not, either directly or indirectly, to give an Arab person cause to think you would like any of their possessions, including jewelry, clothing, souvenirs, etc. This can result in cultural misunderstanding and embarrassment. This can also cause you to be the recipient of an article that you really may not want! Please be very careful of this traditional practice in this culture. Thank you.

PLEASE BE FOREWARNED!

When traveling in a foreign country, you are subject to the laws of that country. In most countries of the world it is illegal to deal in drugs. If you are caught in possession of illegal drugs, you will be arrested. Drug dealing, particularly in the Arab world, is a very serious offense and the penalties are severe. Foreign jails are not pleasant places ñ most require that you supply your own food and necessities.

Do not rely on our consular corps to bail you out. They are there for diplomatic purposes, and some help. They do not loan money or buy tickets. In most cases they will only be able to visit you in jail to verify that you are not being treated inhumanely, receive due process of the local law, and pass messages to family.

It is reported that AIDS is widespread throughout the world. We urge you to take all precautions in this regard.

Removing antiquities from most countries is not allowed any longer. Do not rely on the advice of the seller of antiquities. If you plan to buy antiquities, check with proper authorities.

We would like you to abide by the laws of the countries we visit and have a fun time while you are there.

Thank you.

 

 

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