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Contents
Syria, known as the Cradle of Civilization, boots two cities older than history itself. Both, Aleppo and Damascus vie for the title of oldest, continuously inhabited city in the world. Many human developments trace their roots back to Syria, include such accomplishments are metallurgy, the first written alphabet, agriculture, urban development, and establishing trade routes between east and west. Mountains, plains, Mediterranean coastline, the life-giving Euphrates River, all are but a few of the natural features marking this diverse and fascinating country. Kurds, Assyrians, Circassians, Arabs, Armenians, Palestinians, and Druze inhabit this crossroads of cultures and continents. From the development of the earliest civilizations, which brought us the first alphabet and records of bookkeeping in the ancient world, to defender of the eastern Mediterranean during the Crusades, Syria has much to offer visitors. Explore ancient cities such as Palmyra, and hear the story of Queen Zenobia, who dared (and succeeded for a time) to conquer parts of the Roman Empire. When at last the Romans were able to regain the lands lost to Zenobia, they were so fascinated by the mighty Arab queen that they took her back to Rome in gold shackles as a prize of conquest. Syria has been the subject of numerous conquerors and the perpetrators of almost as many conquests. Damascus was once the capital of the Islamic Arab Empire, and going even further back in time, the ancient mariners of Syria ruled trade routes of the Mediterranean. During the Roman period, Damascus was one of the ten most important cities, and enjoyed special favor during the Syrian dynasty of Roman Emperors. In most recent history, Syria has been embroiled in internal struggles in its search for a modern identity, and its conflict with neighboring, Israel. Once known as Greater Syria, which encompassed modern-day Lebanon and Syria, the Syrian Arab Republic is a relatively y oung country. It became independent of the French Mandate on April 17th, 1946, setting its current borders, excluding Lebanon, which became a separate country at that time. Since that time, continued economic and political pressures have led to bouts of unrest and military coups. The final coup came in 1970 when Defense Minister Hafez Al-Assad ousted the leadership and was subsequently elected president in 1971. He was re-reelected as Syriaís president in each consecutive election since then. Economic problems still plague the country, but political unrest has been kept to a minimum. Assadís legacy was not one of prosperity, but of stability. Syria has been the last holdout in signing a peace agreement with Israel. While Lebanon also has yet to do this, Lebanon has agreed that it will not sign any agreement with Israel until Syria does. The dispute between Israel and Syria is over the Golan Heights, a plateau overlooking the Sea of Galilee, seized and occupied by Israel. The Golan Heights continues to be the middle of an international dispute. As much as the US State Department would like to portray Syria as a haven for terrorists, riddled with instability, and so on, the truth of the matter is that travel is very safe in this country. Tourists are most welcome, and the rewards of taking the time to visit this country are tenfold. Weather What to wear? When visiting a mosque, women are required to cover their heads with a scarf, so bring a scarf that will stay on your head easily-silk scarves have a tendency to slop off without you even knowing it. Business Hours Money Foreign currency and travelerís checks can be exchanged at Damascus Airport, at the frontier posts, in the larger hotels, and at banks (normally open from 8:30 AM to 1 PM). You must show your passport to exchange money at these places. Please note that there are no ATMs (automated Teller Machines) in Syria. There are a lot of internet Cafes (places with access to the internet) in the major cities all over Syria. Photography Be sure to bring plenty of film as it can be hard to find, and expensive. Also, remember to bring spare batteries for your camera. It is also fun to bring a few photos of family and home to show people. Be sensitive to the conservative attitudes of the people you will meet and avoid bringing pictures of couples openly showing affection, people in swimsuits, and women in revealing clothing. It may well not be an issue, but it is better to be safe and avoid an embarrassing moment for both you and your acquaintance. If you bring a Video Camera, you need declare it on your passport upon arrival; otherwise you will end up paying taxes at customs upon your departure. Your tour representative can help you with this. The food from Syria derives from subtly blended flavors of parsley, mint, cinnamon, allspice, yogurt, lemon, olive oil, bulgar whet, tahini (ground sesame seeds) eggplant, various beans, and rice. Lamb, goat, chicken, and fish are the main meats served. Breads of all kinds, shapes, sizes and flavors can be found in shops, restaurants, homes, and street vendors. (However it is recommended that you do not buy food from street vendors) Breakfast usually consists of bread with olive oil and spices (zaítar) for dipping, white cheese made from goat's milk, hard-boiled egg, cucumbers, tomatoes, and black olives. In hotels, Western-style buffet breakfasts can be found. The noontime meal is the main meal of the day. Several dishes may be served along with bread, rice, sliced vegetables. Some of the more popular ones are: mezza: "a little bit
of everything" ñ appetizers Desserts knafi jibni: shredded
pastry with a type of cottage cheese Thick, highly sugared coffee is prepared individually and drunk after dinner. Sweet tea is also consumed along with various soda pops particularly orange-flavored. The evening meal is usually a lighter meal similar to an American lunch. Liquor and Wine Visiting a Private Home
Upon arriving, you will be given something to drink -- probably orange juice or orange drink, or soft pop. This will eventually be followed by solid food with sweet tea afterward. There may be more visiting. You will be served small cups of coffee. This is the signal that the visit is over. To be polite, do not linger after coffee is served. Many cities and villages started out on hilltops where the population felt safe. The citizenry would go down the hill daily to farm crops, and animals would be brought in to the safety of the walls. Thus, many cities you will visit have ìcitadelsî, old forts and cities that were the original refuges for the early settlers. As the population grew,. The People began to build houses and shops outside the city walls. Today you will see large inhabited area surrounding the original citadel. . Look for the old cities when you visit some of these fascinating places. Do you know how to tell the difference between an Arab city and a Greek city? The Greeks built cities like ours with straight streets. Arab cities have streets that curve, and the buildings abut the sidewalk, with upper stories overhanging, in some cases almost enclosing the street. With this design, it guarantees that at any time of the day, you will probably find some shade. Look for this architectural style in the old sections of the cities you visit. Aleppo The Souq al- Attarin is miles of covered passageways filled with shops offering all kinds of wares. The souq is at the foot of the Citadel, and the passageways are arranged in somewhat of a grid pattern, although they can feel labyrinthine as you wander through, losing track of where you are! You may enter through a gate on the road that surrounds the citadel, plunging into shadow as you head down the gently sloping passageway. The other main entrance is next to the Great Mosque, where the road leading up to the souq is open and lined with shops, then after one turn you are in the maze of corridors with the light of the street left behind you. Here you will encounter merchants that sell scarves, kaffeiyehs, wood boxes, and table clothes, coffee, perfume, spices, and more. Watch out for the donkeys loaded with merchandise and carts being pushed through the narrowing passageways as they transport goods around the souq. Aleppo is the shopperís paradise. Throughout the city there are various shopping areas where you can buy fresh fruits and vegetables, olive oil soap, house wares, sweets, and more. Other places to visit in Aleppo are the museum, the Baron Hotel where Agatha Christie spent many an evening writing her mysteries, the mental hospital that used the soft sounds of water fountains as therapy for its patients, the numerous khans, the Great Mosque, and the Armenian quarter-Azzazzia, to name but a few. Azem Palace Bosra Bosra became one of the leading Nabatean (the builders of Petra in Jordan) cities before becoming the capital of the Roman province of Arabia in 106 AD. Damascus Stroll through the original shopping mall in the Souq Al-Hammadiyya. Almost everything is for sale here: daily household items such as soap and cleaning utensils, to handmade silk brocades and wooden boxes inlaid with mother of pearl. The sights, smells, and sounds that will bombard your senses are worth the visit. One of the exits from the souq brings you out to the Omayyad Mosque. The mosque has three minarets and is unique in its architecture. The site has always been dedicated to worship. Originally, it was a temple to Hadad, the Aramean god of the ancient Syrians. During the Roman era it was converted to a temple to Jupiter. If then became the Church of John the Baptist. When Islam spread throughout the region, Muslims and Christians prayed side by side at the church. In 705 AD, when Damascus was the capital of the Arab Islamic Empire, the Omayyad Caliph al-Walid ibn Abdul Malek negotiated with the Christians to obtain all of the church and convert it into a mosque. He granted them land and built them another church as part of the bargain. Inside the mosque are a shrine and the tomb of John the Baptist. While in Damascus be sure to visit the National Museum, where the front door is a restored gate from a desert fortress. Inside you will see an enormous collection of artifacts, art, and examples from the earliest civilizations. The collection of archeological treasures rivals Athensí National Museum and the British Museum in items of importance to human civilization! Hama Homs Lattakia Palmyra Queen Zenobia had other ideas about Palmyraís future, which did not include the Romans, and led a successful campaign to not only take back complete control of the city, but all of the Roman Empire. She eventually took control of all of Syria and sent armies to Egypt and Asia Minor, controlling all of the sea and land routes from the Far East. Of course the Romans, who had been embroiled in it for their own internal problems could not sit back for too long and let this happen and eventually Emperor Aurelian himself led an expedition to conquer Palmyra and take back the lands lost to Zenobia. The Romans were successful in their efforts and Zenobia was taken in chains of gold as a prisoner to Rome. The city fell to looting and destruction and eventually became deserted. Manís civilization dawned in the Middle East and three monotheistic religions emerged there. Following is a brief description of Judaism, Christianity and Islam as much as is needed to be observed by tourists. Judaism: God revealed to Moses the 10 Commandments on Mount St. Cathrine in Sinai but he was not permitted to enter the Holy Land. King Solomon built the first temple which was destroyed by the Babylonians. The First and Second Jewish Temples were built on the mount, which now is occupied by the Dome of the Rock and the Agsa Mosgue. The Babylonians destroyed the Second Temple. Jews believe that the old retaining wall on the Mount, which is called the Western or Wailing Wall, is part of the Temple. Archaeologists have reconstructed a model of the Second Temple, which you might visit. Synagogues of the Jewish people can be found throughout Israel and Palestine. We know of no special protocols for visiting Jewish synagogues that you need to observe, however from Friday at sundown until Saturday at sundown the Sabbath, or day of rest, is observed, and visitors to Jewish houses of worship may not be welcome during that time. A respect for all religions and the people practicing them is requested from people enjoying our tours. If you have any further questions, please do not hesitate to ask us. Christianity: Jordan, Israel and Palestine are territories of Christianity. Jerusalem, Nazareth, Bethlehem, and the Jordan Valley are principal destinations. Approximately 5% of Palestinians and Jordanians are Christians. Churches can be found throughout all the countries in the area. Syria has many famous Christian churches, and you can even hear Aramaic, the language of Christ, spoken in Maíalula in Syria and by Orthodox Jews in Jerusalem. Since Christian protocol remains essentially the same in the Middle East as the United States, behavior rules are the same in both places. Islam: For Muslims (Moslems), God revealed his eternal truths in Arabic through the Prophet Muhammad (Mohammed), 570-632AD, who lived in what is today Saudi Arabia. The revelations were collected as the Quíran (Koran). Muslims believe that the Prophet Muhammad was transported in a miraculous journey from Mecca (in modern Saudi Arabia) to Jerusalem to Heaven and then home. The Dome of the Rock commemorates the spot where he rose to Heaven and returned. After the Prophetís death, Islam was spread by his followers and eventually encompassed an area from Bosnia to southern Russia, east to China, and south to the Philippines, and west via North Africa to Spain. We therefore can find mosques (houses of worship) throughout the world as well throughout the Middle East. Many Christian churches have been converted into mosques. Some prominent examples are in Aya Sofia in Istanbul, and the Omayyad Mosque in Damascus. When visiting a mosque, be prepared to leave your shoes with the doorkeeper. It is not necessary to tip him. Women wear a scarf to cover the hair when entering a mosque. Black and white scarves are common, but any subdued color may be used. Prayers may be in session and quiet respect is expected. Hearing the prayers chanted could be a thrilling experience. Muslims pray five times a day and they wash before praying but this is not required of visitors. Islam follows a lunar calendar of 12 months a year, which is shorter than the solar year by eleven days. The holiest month is Ramadan (pr. Ra-ma-dan), strict Moslems fast during the hours between daybreak and sunset, and eat between sunset and daybreak. During the fast, Muslims abstain from eating, drinking, and smoking during daylight hours. Breaking the fast at the end of the day is an important event. Visitors are not expected to observe the fast, bu in consideration for those who do, please refrain from smoking or eating during the hours of the fast in public during Ramadan. You may plan to eat in hotels and restaurants as desired. Prepare to bargain! See what a good deal you can get! For many people in the world, there's no such thing as a Universal Product Code or price tag. The merchant sizes up the buyer, the buyer sizes up the merchant and each tries to obtain the best price. Many Westerners dislike bargaining in foreign countries, and see it as a waste of time or, worse yet, an opportunity to be swindled. However, bargaining can be pleasant -- even fun -- if you understand the "rules." In most places where there is bargaining, there are strategies employed on both sides that are understood to be simply that: Strategies. Each side jockeys for advantage. And while there are few strategies that hold true the world over, here are some suggestions to try on your trip:
Most shopping will be in the large cities such as Damascus and Aleppo. Handicrafts are abundant, many of which come from the Bedouins in the outlying areas. Some things you might look for are:
Note: Please read "Please be forewarned" regarding buying antiques. The language of Syria is Arabic. Classical Arabic is used in all official correspondence, newspapers, and TV news; however, it is rarely spoken ìon the streetî. Colloquial (local dialect) Arabic is the spoken language and varies from country to country. For example, in North Africa other languages, such as Berber and French, influence it. In Egypt, the accent and pronunciation is changed. Therefore, spoken communication can be difficult between people from different countries. In Lebanon, French and English are widely understood. Arabic is read from right to left. We list below some common expressions in Arabic spoken in the Levant (Lebanon, Syria, Palestine, Jordan). Words are gendered, having different endings for ìmaleî and ìfemaleî. ah-len wa sah-len: formal
greeting Numbers:
Arab Music is a unique form of music heard in Arab countries from the Gulf to the Meghreb. Traditional or Classic Arab music is performed by acoustic instruments. In recent years electric instruments which can produce quartertones have been introduced. Arab music scales are not chromatic like the major and minor scales used in occidental music. It is the quartertone, which makes this music so unique and expandable. Because of this quality, Arab music has a variety of scales unfamiliar to the Western ear. These scales represent a mode, a human emotion, or a feeling. Some are suitable for morning listening, some for late night. These scales are called Maqaams (positions). Some of the common Maqaams are Hijaz, Bayaat, Saba, Siga and Kurd, and most Arabic songs utilize several Maqaam to express the various emotions introduced in the poetry of each song. The historic origin of this music is ext remely heterogeneous. Early Arab musicians borrowed from the Egyptians, Assyrians, and Sumerians. Many of the instruments now used are direct descendents of those that appeared in wall paintings and carvings of those civilizations. Greek music theory was translated into Arabic in the 8th and 9th centuries as the science of music became one of the courses of the quadrivium, and was studied by most students of the period. Seven treatises of music theory appeared under the name of Al-Kindi (d. 874) and three have survived in print. After Al-Kindi there was a gap of about a century in documentation. Following Al-Kindi, the great theorist Al-Farabi published his book Al-Kitaab Al-Kabeer which included immense and detailed information on music and music instruments of that era. Being a good mathematician and physicist, Al-Farabi was able to handle the physical bases of sounds by making valuable contributions to physiological acoustics, i.e. the sensation of tone, which is part of Greek music theory. The following are some of the most popular instruments of Arab music: OUD, al-ëOud (meaning "wood") is a highly ornate instrument made of wood with six double strings, pear-shaped body and non-fretted neck. It is plucked with an eagle feather or a pick. The ëOud originated in Ancient Egypt and was later adopted by the Persians, who brought it to the Arabian Peninsula. The great Iraqi musician, Zeriab, introduced the 'Oud to Spain and later to Europe when he sought refuge in Andalusia. QANOUN: al-Qanoun (meaning "rule", "law") is a descendant of the old Egyptian Harp. The form of the Qanoun is a trapezoid-shaped flat board over which 81 strings are stretched in groups of three, with 24 treble chords consisting of three chords to each note with movable frets called ëUrab. The Qanoun is placed flat on the knees of the musician: the strings are plucked with the finger or with two plectra, one plectrum attached to the forefinger of each hand plucking separate octaves. NAY: A Persian word used to describe a single reed pipe. It is one of the oldest instruments in the Middle East. The Nay has 6 holes in the front for the fingers to play, and 1 hole underneath for the thumb. Fine, mellow tones are produced by blowing gently through the orifice of the tube while manipulating the fingers and thumbs: the force of blowing scales (Maqaams) generates octaves by utilizing Nays of various lengths. MIJWIZ: (means dual) is a type of double reed clarinet played by breathing gently through a circular aperture and by manipulating the fingers over the holes down the front of the tube. The sound it produces may reflect a musical dialogue between two moods DAF: also known as the Rikk, which corresponds to the English tambourine. It consists of a round frame covered on one side by goat or fish skin, with pairs of metal discs set into the frame that jingle when the hand strikes it. The sounds of this percussion instrument set the rhythm of Arab music. TABLAH /Darbouka: is also a percussion instrument; made of clay or metal with goat or fish skin stretched over its larger opening. It is placed on the leg; beaten with both hands yielding different sounds: when beaten near the edge it produces sounds like (tic), or near the middle the sound is more like (dom), establishing several rhythmic scales to accompany the meter of sounds produced by accompanied instruments. Gift Giving in the Arab Countries Tradition dictates that if you admire an item belonging to another person in an Arab country, it will be automatically given to you. Now technically, you may say, ìThat necklace on you is lovely,î but not, ìWhat a lovely necklace that is.î The inference is that you admire someoneís taste as a pleasant object, but not admire it because you want such a thing. Please remember to try not, either directly or indirectly, to give an Arab person cause to think you would like any of their possessions, including jewelry, clothing, souvenirs, etc. This can result in cultural misunderstanding and embarrassment. This can also cause you to be the recipient of an article that you really may not want! Please be very careful of this traditional practice in this culture. Thank you. When traveling in a foreign country, you are subject to the laws of that country. In most countries of the world it is illegal to deal in drugs. If you are caught in possession of illegal drugs, you will be arrested. Drug dealing, particularly in the Arab world, is a very serious offense and the penalties are severe. Foreign jails are not pleasant places ñ most require that you supply your own food and necessities. Do not rely on our consular corps to bail you out. They are there for diplomatic purposes, and some help. They do not loan money or buy tickets. In most cases they will only be able to visit you in jail to verify that you are not being treated inhumanely, receive due process of the local law, and pass messages to family. It is reported that AIDS is widespread throughout the world. We urge you to take all precautions in this regard. Removing antiquities from most countries is not allowed any longer. Do not rely on the advice of the seller of antiquities. If you plan to buy antiquities, check with proper authorities. We would like you to abide by the laws of the countries we visit and have a fun time while you are there. Thank you.
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