Caravan-Serai Tours

Handbook

Contents

Introduction to Tunisia
Practical Matters
- Weather
- What to Wear
- Business Hours
- Money Matters
- Photography
- Time
- Language
Food
Wines
Places to Visit
Religions of the Middle East
How to Bargain
What to Buy in Tunisia
The Arabic Language in Tunisia
Arabic Alphabet
Music in the Arab World
Gift Giving in the Arab Countries
Please be Forewarned
Suggested Reading List

Introduction to Tunisia

Tunisia is Africaís northernmost country, and is 63,378 square miles, comparable in size to the United Kingdom less Scotland. The country is approximately 150 miles wide and 500 miles long. The Sahara Desert borders it on the north and east by the Mediterranean Sea, on the west by Algeria and the Atlas Mountains and on the south.

The promontory of Cap Blanc near Bizerta is the most northern point. The eastern Atlas Mountains parallel the small north coast and contain the Ain Draham forests of cork oak and pine, and the twin lakes of Bizerta and Ichkeul. Toward the eastern end of the Atlas, is the fertile Mejerda Valley boasting undulating farmlands including large fields of wheat, rising to a plateau known as the Tell. Soft rains make this northern area a lush, green paradise. Tunisiaís ëbackbone,í the Dorsale range lies south and west of the Tell.

On the northeast coast, lies Tunis, the capital, facing across the Mediterranean to Sicily, 87 miles distant. The eastern sandy beaches are carved by three large Gulfs: Tunis, Hammamet and Gabes. Traveling the eastern coastal corridor of what was once a sea channel between Africa and Europe, one passes Cape Bon, geologically part of Sicily, and arrives at Hammamet. Further south along the Sahel (shore) is Sousse.

Scattered around the 810-mile long Tunisian shoreline, are many islands, some inhabited and some rocky outposts. The most famous resort island is Djerba, the "land of the lotus eaters."

In the center of the country, the Jebel Chambi, the countryís highest peak (5066í) is on the western side of a steppe region, dotted with Roman ruins. Eastward lies Sfax on the shore, surrounded by unbroken miles of olive groves.

Further south, a line of arid hills stretches from the east at Metlaoui to the west at Maknassy separating this southern part of the country from the Sahara desert where the last outpost is at Borj el-Hattaba.

In southern Tunisia, the Sahara Desert starts with the chotts. In winter, these salt-flats frequently turn into quagmires of viscous salt-laden sand and mud. In summer, this mixture dries and the salt forms a firm crust that shimmers crystalline white for miles, often appearing to dissolve into a vast mirage. Oases form in and near the chotts creating exotic islands of palms and fresh-water pools, attracting nomads and their camels. No travel brochure can describe the picturesque quality of these places.

South of the chotts the Matmatas make a dramatic rise. They include the Ksour - bald, russet, table-topped summits which, until recently, sheltered Berber tribesmen who lived in caves, pits and cliffs.

The dunes then take over. Known as the Great Eastern Erg, Tunisia runs out in the sands of the Sahara.

Practical Matters

Weather
The north tends to be Mediterranean-warm, and the south Saharan-hot. Coastal resorts, both north and south, are tempered by perennial sea breezes that make the summer sun enjoyable. The winter weather is fine for every outdoor activity except swimming. May and June seem to be the most enjoyable months: flowers bloom the year round but it is then that the colors and abundance are most delightful. July and August are best for serious sun tanning, although half-days of rain come as a regular surprise. In autumn the air and the sea are as limpid and warm as in spring: only the greenery has dulled in the summer sun.

What to wear?
In summer, light cotton clothing, a hat and sunglasses are essential. Visitors during winter months will require warm clothing as well as a waterproof windbreaker.

Voltage
220 volt, with 50 cycles is the norm. AC is the standard nationwide. Sockets take two round pins.

Business Hours
Shops open from 8am to 12pm and from 3pm till 6pm in the afternoon. In the summer, the shops open and close up to an hour later. Shops are closed on Sunday and many close Saturday afternoons.

Bank hours are from 8am to 11am and from 2pm till 4pm. On Fridays, 8am till 11am and 1pm till 3pm.

Museums and archaeological sites are closed on Mondays and public holidays.

Currency
The unit of money is the Tunisian dinar (abbreviated D or TUD). The dinar is divided into a thousand millimes. Thus five dinars would be written as 5,000 TUD. Tourists are unlikely to come across any coins smaller than 50 or 100 millimes: coins go up to a half-dinar. The most common banknotes are denominations of 5 and 10 dinars.

All credit cards can be used in Tunis. ATM machines are found in major cities.

Photography
In some societies, people are uncomfortable being the subject of a touristís photographs. It may also be forbidden to take pictures of people (particularly women), buildings, museums, etc. In particular, refrain from photographing anything that appears to be associated with the military. Please always ask your guide or host, or the intended subject if it is permissible to take a photograph.

Be sure to bring plenty of film as it can be hard to find and expensive. Also bring spare batteries for your camera.

It is also fun to bring a few photos of family and home to show people you meet. Be sensitive to the conservative attitudes of the people you will meet and avoid bringing pictures of couples openly showing affection, people in swimsuits, and women in revealing clothing. It may well not be an issue, but it is better to be safe and avoid an embarrassing moment for both you and your acquaintance.

If you bring a Video Camera you need to declare it on your passport upon arrival, otherwise you will end up paying taxes at customs upon your departure. The tour representative can help you with this.

Time
Tunis does not have daylight savings time. Year-round its clocks stay at GMT + 1. Thus itís on the same time as Britain in the summer, but an hour ahead in the winter.

Language
Arabic is the official language but fluent French is very widely spoken, even in rather remote villages. English speakers are found in many areas.

Food

Tunisian cuisine is hearty and wholesome and usually an excellent value for your money. If your appetite needs encouraging, a tour of the nearest market should be an inspiration, for the vegetables and fish here are fresher than almost anywhere.

The most typically Tunisian dish, couscous, is delicious and full of flavor and character. The base is a whopping portion of delicately rolled grains of semolina. On top you may find, lamb, chicken or fish, chickpeas, red peppers, potatoes, cabbage and eggs round out this dish. In the unlikely event that itís not spicy enough, add some harissa to taste.

A vegetable stew, chakchouka, features ingredients as simple as onions, tomatoes, chickpeas and peppers, often covered with a fried egg. In general, vegetarians may be hard pressed to find acceptable dish es in the typical Tunisian restaurant.

An egg, sometimes only half-fried, is the surprising ingredient in a brik, a popular starter or street-corner snack. Surrounded by spicy vegetables and tuna, the egg hides inside a thin, crisp, deep-fried pastry envelope.

Mechoui (pronounced mish-wee) is an array of grilled meats, usually lamb, varies from restaurant to restaurant. Mechouii is one of the dishes that may include merquez, small red mutton sausage that can be spicy.

Potential confusion: Tunisian tajini bears little resemblance to the rich meat-and-vegetable stew of the same name famed elsewhere in North Africa; here it is rather like a quiche, soufflÈ or omelet.

Many visiting gourmets find the fresh fish a real highlight of the Tunisian coast. A variety of desirable Mediterranean species, just out of the net, may be displayed in a refrigerated case or on a platter in the dining room. Generally menus use the French names - merou (grouper), rouget (red mullet), loup de mer (perch), daurade (sea bream) and so on. But you can just point at the one that looks best and it will be grilled in your honor. Shellfish, too, are abundant - moules (mussels), huitres (oysters), crevettes (prawns), and an expensive but great treat, langouste (rock lobster).

Wines

The Carthaginians and Romans had a way with grapes, and so do modern Tunisians (with a helping hand from the French). They produce delicious wines of all persuasions, usually at attractive prices. A few labels to look for:

Blanc de blancs, a breathtakingly dry white wine thatís perfect with fish
Muscat sec de Klelibia, an original white reminiscent of retsina
Ch?teau Feriani, a full-bodied red from the ìCote dí Uticaî
Haut Mornag, a dry, light red
El Kahena, a refreshing rose
Gris de Tunisie, another good bet for rose fans

Beer lovers have few complaints about Celtia, the light Tunisian lager. Alternatively, expensive imports are sometimes available. Several brands of mineral waters, flat or fizzy, are served in cafes and restaurants. Brandy fanciers will want to sip a sample of the local specialties: boukka, a fig brandy, and thibarine, an aromatic date liqueur.

Places to Visit

Bulla Regia
The villas here were built underground to protect their wealthy Roman owners from the heat. But, it was still hot in the kitchen - one villaís walls are still stained with smoke!

Carthage
The most romantic destination founded as a Phoenician trading post was built by Queen Dido and devastated by the Romans. The ruins tell their own story of love, courage, and anguish.

Djerba
Tunisiaís southern-most beach located on an island is known for its dazzling white beaches and excellent water sports. Connected to the mainland by ferry and causeway, it is served by regular flights from Tunis and direct charter services from the UK. This thriving tourist area offers a wide choice of hotels. Its charming capital, Houmt Souk, is well served with cafÈs, restaurants and shops.

Dougga
The most evocative of all of Tunisiaís Roman sites. Dougga gazes across the countryside with all the hauteur of an Emperor. It was build in the 2nd Century AD of caramel colored stone and covers 62 magnificent acres.

El Jem
A clenched fist of stone in the middle of olive groves, the El Jemsí Coliseum is second only to Romeís. Built in 230 AD, the 120 foot walls once echoed to the cries of Christians, the roar of lions, and the last words of the gladiators to the Imperial box, "We who are about to die salute you!"

Gabes
The largest administrative and economic center in the Jerid region with a popular beach and an oasis of more than 3,000,000 date palms. Its atmospheric medina includes the Jara Market with its cobbled streets of blacksmithís stalls and jewelerís shops.

Gafsa
Is famous for its twin Roman pools, which are still used by summer bathers. Nearby Metlaoui is the starting point for a popular rail journey through the spectacular Gorges of Seldja aboard the 1920ís style "Red Lizard" train.

Hammamet
Tunisiaís oldest resort, its beach is like a five-mile scimitar of sand. Stylish hotels are set in luxuriant gardens. Every water sport is available here. A modern town center full of life and laughter, it has enough after-dark entertainment to satisfy anyone. Visit the cheekily painted fishing boats that nestle beneath the walls of the 15th century Kasbah.

Kairouan
Founded in 670 AD where several main camel routes crossed, Kairouan is so holy that people say seven visits equal the pilgrimage to Mecca. The fourth holiest city in the Muslim world, worshippers fill the Great Mosque where the prayer-room is a forest of pillars.

Matmata
Famous for its troglodyte houses, which date from the fourth century BC, was the backdrop for the film "Star Wars".

Monastir
Grand and elegant, Monastir has its own airport and is edged by a seafront promenade. The sweep of the beach is cut short by the battlements of another Ribat. It has been used as the backdrop for films such as "Monty Pythonís Life of Brian" and the television mini-series, "Jesus of Nazareth".

Nefta
At Nefta, the "Basket of Plenty"; great terraces of palms descend from a plateau of honey-colored houses. Nefta is the last place you would expect a luxury hotel, however sunrise from its terrace is pure magic. The muezzin calls, the city awakes to faraway voices, the braying of donkeys, and the barking of dogs. And then the warming sun caresses your face.

Sbeitla
Founded in 69 AD, the temples, arches and streets glow gold in the sun. One detail makes it human: The masonís marks cut into the paving stones.

Sidi Bou Saíid
The name of this city is an abbreviation of the name of a Muslim saint who lived here. His full name was Abou Said ibn Yahia Ettamini el Beji. Perched on cliffs overlooking the Bay of Tunis, and wreathed in gardens, Sidi Bou Saíid is on e of the Mediterraneanís prettiest villages. An array of domes, arched doors, balconies and grilles in dazzling blue and white are set against a sparkling sea.

Sfax
Sfax is a large city with a genuine walled medina and a good museum. Sfaxians are renowned for their hard work, which is reflected in the cityís orderliness. There are some 400 olive presses in the city, producing olive oil that is shipped directly from the port, the second largest in Tunisia, after the port of Tunis.

Sousse
A kind of Tunis-on-the-sea, Sousse is a city-resort in itís own right. Apart from the stunning beaches, there is wall-to-wall entertainment here. Ancient ramparts surround the old town and the 9th-century Ribat, a fortress for warrior-monks, has holes for pouring boiling oil on invaders.

Tabarka
Nestled in green and undulating countryside, reminiscent of unspoiled Province, Tabarka is backed by wooded hills patterned with flowers.

Tamerza
An hourís drive from Tozeur, the original village of Tamerza was devastated by catastrophic flooding in 1969 and now lies abandoned. Wander around the eerily empty dwellings or gaze at them in the evenings when the old village is floodlit from the comfort of the Tamerza Palace Hotel.

Tozeur
Is the largest settlement on the Chott El Jerid, a 150-mile-long salt lake that was developed around a vast 2500-acre grove of palm trees, irrigated by more than 200 natural springs, produces some of the best dates in Tunisia. Donít miss the medina here with its unique brick houses, or the Dar Chraiet Museum with its impressive array of national costumes and traditional jewelry. Tozeur was featured in the Star Wars film, "The Phantom Menace" and provided the backdrop for the multi-Oscar-winning film, "The English patient".

Tunis
The domes and minarets of Tunis are unforgettable. Old and new buildings live in perfect harmony here. Broad boulevards are lined with cafes and flower stalls. But, behind the modern shops and hotels of the capital is the Old Town. Unchanged, its souks are a kaleidoscope of colors, and silversmiths, carpet weavers and perfumers bargain as they have for centuries.

Religions In The Middle East

Manís civilization dawned in the Middle East and three monotheistic religions emerged there. Following is a brief description of Judaism, Christianity and Islam as much as is needed to be observed by tourists.

Judaism: God revealed to Moses the 10 Commandments on Mount St. Cathrine in Sinai but he was not permitted to enter the Holy Land. King David, progenitor of the Jewish people, built the First Jewish Temple, which was destroyed by the Persians. The First and Second Jewish Temples were built on the mount, which now is occupied by the Dome of the Rock and the Agsa Mosgue. The Babylonians destroyed the Second Temple. Jews believe that the old retaining wall on the Mount, which is called the Western or Wailing Wall, is part of the Temple. Archaeologists have reconstructed a model of the Second Temple, which you might visit. Synagogues of the Jewish people can be found throughout Israel and Palestine. We know of no special protocols for visiting Jewish synagogues that you need to observe, however from Friday at sundown until Saturday at sundown the Sabbath, or day of rest, is observed, and visitors to Jewish houses of worship may not be welcome during that time.

A respect for all religions and the people practicing them is requested from people enjoying our tours. If you have any further questions, please do not hesitate to ask us.

Christianity: Jordan, Israel and Palestine are territories of Christianity. Jerusalem, Nazareth, Bethlehem, and the Jordan Valley are principal destinations. Approximately 5% of Palestinians and Jordanians are Christians. Churches can be found throughout all the countries in the area. Syria has many famous Christian churches, and you can even hear Aramaic, the language of Christ, spoken in Maíalula in Syria and by Orthodox Jews in Jerusalem. Since Christian protocol remains essentially the same in the Middle East as the United States, behavior rules are the same in both places.

Islam: For Muslims (Moslems), God revealed his eternal truths in Arabic through the Prophet Muhammad (Mohammed), 570-632AD, who lived in what is today Saudi Arabia. The revelations were collected as the Quíran (Koran). Muslims believe that the Prophet Muhammad was transported in a miraculous journey from Mecca (in modern Saudi Arabia) to Jerusalem to Heaven and then home. The Dome of the Rock commemorates the spot where he rose to Heaven and returned. After the Prophetís death, Islam was spread by his followers and eventually encompassed an area from Bosnia to southern Russia, east to China, and south to the Philippines, and west via North Africa to Spain. We therefore can find mosques (houses of worship) throughout the world as well throughout the Middle East. Many Christian churches have been converted into mosques. Some prominent examples are in Aya Sofia in Istanbul, and the Omayyad Mosque in Damascus.

When visiting a mosque, be prepared to leave your shoes with the doorkeeper. It is not necessary to tip him. Women wear a scarf to cover the hair when entering a mosque. Black and white scarves are common, but any subdued color may be used. Prayers may be in session and quiet respect is expected. Hearing the prayers chanted could be a thrilling experience. Muslims pray five times a day and they wash before praying but this is not required of visitors.

Islam follows a lunar calendar of 12 months a year, which is shorter than the solar year by eleven days. The holiest month is Ramadan (pr. Ra-ma-dan), strict Moslems fast during the hours between daybreak and sunset, and eat between sunset and daybreak. During the fast, Muslims abstain from eating, drinking, and smoking during daylight hours. Breaking the fast at the end of the day is an important event. Visitors are not expected to observe the fast, bu in consideration for those who do, please refrain from smoking or eating during the hours of the fast in public during Ramadan. You may plan to eat in hotels and restaurants as desired.

How to Bargain Effectively

Prepare to bargain! See what a good deal you can get!

For many people in the world, there's no such thing as a Universal Product Code or price tag. The merchant sizes up the buyer, the buyer sizes up the merchant and each tries to obtain the best price.

Many Westerners dislike bargaining in foreign countries, and see it as a waste of time or, worse yet, an opportunity to be swindled. However, bargaining can be pleasant -- even fun -- if you understand the "rules."

In most places where there is bargaining, there are strategies employed on both sides that are understood to be simply that: Strategies. Each side jockeys for advantage. And while there are few strategies that hold true the world over, here are some suggestions to try on your trip:

1. Before going shopping, ask a local person how much you should pay for a particular item. This primarily applies to food or household items that residents might buy frequently. Or talk to your concierge if you're interested in a specific high-ticket item. Even armed with this knowledge, however, expects to pay a little above the locals' price -- it's often a matter of pride to get a better-than-average price from a tourist.
2. Offer much lower than you really want to pay. How much lower depends upon where you are and what you're buying. Generally speaking, offering a quarter to a third of the price quoted for souvenirs in most developing countries is a good start, but there are exceptions. If, for instance, you were buying a rug in Morocco, you would be foolish to offer more than a tenth the asking price (or to pay more than a fifth).
3. Be polite. This is where many tourists make a mistake. Insulting the seller by saying,: "Your prices are outrageous," or "Don't try to cheat me!" won't get you very far, and reinforces negative stereotypes about Westerners.
4. It's much better, in fact to humble yourself. Pick up an item you're interested in. "You like?" the merchant asks. "Yes, it's very nice." "How much you pay?" "Oh, I could never afford such an item." "Please tell me your price." "I'm afraid I'd insult you if I told you what I could pay. I can't pay what it's worth." "Go ahead, tell me how much you pay." Then you name a ridiculously low price. The merchant will counter with a price that's higher than what you said, but much lower than he might quote to other tourists. You can slowly raise your price, and he can slowly lower his; you've set yourself up well. Americans negotiate 50-50 by splitting the asking price, but this is not the rule in developing countries where less than 50% of the asking price can be obtained. Try to figure out a reasonable wholesale price and add a reasonable profit for the seller.
5. Don't denigrate the merchandise. Conventional wisdom says to point out flaws or defects to get a lower price. In practice, this is a rather transparent tactic, and the fact that you're bargaining for the item at all is a pretty good indication that you consider the defect minor. If there is a flaw you can live with, the better strategy is to bargain your best price without mentioning the flaw. Then, just before you're ready to hand over the money, you "notice" it. Say that you're sorry, but you don't want it with the flaw, and start to put it back. The price will almost always come down a little further to get you to take it. (Note: This won't work if there are similar items that are in good condition.)
6. Give the merchant excuses to lower his price. Say you can't afford the "normal" price because you're a student, youíre newly married, or recently divorced. You have 10 children. You must support your elderly parents. You just lost your job. You just started your job.
7. Good cop, bad cop. If you and your companion spot something you want, one of you should say, in front of the merchant, "Look at this! Isn't it great?" The other should look at it with disdain, say "Put it back," and walk on. The merchant will approach the one who showed interest and encourage him or her to buy. Then, no matter what price is quoted, the answer should be, "Gee, for something that much, I'd have to ask my wife (husband)." The price will keep dropping every time you make a move to get the other spouse involved.
8. Have a friend do the bargaining. Merchants can tell when you're truly hooked on an item, and will have no incentive to go lower after they've seen that gleam in your eye. But find a friend who is truly disinterested, give him a set limit to spend and wait somewhere out of sight. The friend should tell the merchant he is buying for someone else, and at a certain point in the bargaining, should tell the merchant that he simply has no authority to go above that price. There is little a merchant can say other than "yes" or "no." He can't move your offer.
9. Walk away - even out the door. Sellers may chase you down the street!

What to Buy in Tunisia

Out of the official, quality-and-price-controlled Artisan (handcraft) shops, where everything from carpets to birdcages bears a price tag, and carpets have a stamp of origin and caliber, shopping in Tunisia is definitely an art. Located in the old city (the Medina), the souks offer a selection of objects of unsurpassed beauty and distinction, excellent arts and crafts; and traditional work.

A collection of traditionally dressed dolls may be found at the official "Office of the Artisan Shops". Well-made and authentic replicas of the costumes and dress of Tunisian women make these dolls wonderful gifts and souvenirs. Sidi Bou Said birdcages in white or olivewood are world famous and can be used as planters, for decoration and, of course, for birds.

While it is possible to unearth a real treasure at the souks in many towns, certified antiques can be purchased at only a few stores in Tunisia. There are fine imitations of ancient coins, stone lamps and statues on sale in many stores and in the museum gift shop. Browsing through the shops in the souk you will find coins, statues, fossils, authentic traditional womenís costumes, art deco, bric-a-brac, and old versus antique pottery, furniture and artwork. (Please see note under section, "Please Be Forewarned")

Jewelry: Authentic Berber bracelets and necklaces can still be found in the souks. Bracelets are inclined to be heavy - some ornate, some exquisitely modern in their primitive designs. The price is usually by weight of silver content; workmanship, value is then added.

Ceramics: Ceramic tiles, platters, and bowls are displayed in every color, hue and design. A careful look will ensure that the hand painting is well done and the piece intact. The use and the region dictate the colors.

Exquisitely, embossed, engraved or chased, copper and brass trays, coffeepots, vases and ashtrays are found throughout. The intricacy of the calligraphy and design on the trays set the price, as well as the weight and the size. Ashtrays that can be engraved on the spot with your name in Arabic are a popular, and inexpensive souvenir.

Leather goods: Hats, pocketbooks, carryalls and hassocks are popular items. In particular the hassocks are made in natural leather embossed or painted with traditional patterns including the ever popular camel. Book covers are beautifully decorated with gilt. The skill of the traditional leatherworker has in part been used to make quality leather jackets and coats.

Carpets: Whether you prefer natural wool or camel hair alloucha of Kairouan, in brightly colored klim, margoums, or elegant silk, award Tunisiaís carpets the prize for quality and price. The selections in every category are infinite. Rare is the visitor who can resist such marvels at such reasonable rates. The number of knots per square meter classifies most carpets with silk at the top of the list with 250,000 and over! Always check the back of the rug for quality.

Wall hangings: Embroidered or plain in natural shades or brightly colored with intricately patterns, the same skill and art that is used in carpet making is used in the hand weaving of these articles. Pure undyed wool blankets are greatly appreciated in this day of synthetics. Fine shawls embroidered with traditional designs make unusual and colorful wall hangings. The colorful, figurative of Gafsa are often hung on walls of banks, offices and homes and offer a great variety in size and price and color.

The Arabic Language in Tunisia

The language of Tunisia is Arabic. Classical Arabic is used in all official correspondence, newspapers, and TV news; however, it is rarely spoken ìon the streetî. Colloquial (local dialect) Arabic is the spoken language and varies from country to country. For example, in North Africa other languages, such as Berber and French, influence it. In Egypt, the accent and pronunciation is changed. Therefore, spoken communication can be difficult between people from different countries. In Tunisia, French is widely understood, as in English, but it is not as prevalent.

Arabic is read from right to left. We list below some common expressions in Arabic.

ah-len wa sah-len: formal greeting
marhaba: hello
ma sa-laa-ma: good-bye ("Go in Peace")
sa-bah al hair: good morning
sa-bah-an-noor: good morning - response
kee-fik: how are you (feminine)
kee-fak: how are you (masculine)
nam: yes
la: no
shu-kran: thank you
af-wan: youíre welcome
wain___?: where is_____?
wain ha-mmam?: where is the bathroom?
kit-eer gha-li: too expensive
ah-roo-h he-nak___: I want to go___
dok-tor: doctor
bi kam? How much?

Numbers
1. wa-hid
2. ith-nain
3. tha-la-tha
4. ar-baa
5. kham-sa
6. sit-tah
7. sa-ba-ah
8. tha-man-I-ah
9. tis-sah
10. ah-sha-ra

The Arabic Alphabet


alif	beh	teh	theh	jim	ha	kha

dal	dhal	ra	zin	sin	shin	sad

dad	ta	dha	ain	ghain	feh	qaf

kaf	lam	mim	nun	heh	waw	yeh

Music in the Arab World

Arab Music is a unique form of music heard in Arab countries from the Gulf to the Meghreb. Traditional or Classic Arab music is performed by acoustic instruments. In recent years electric instruments which can produce quartertones have been introduced.

Arab music scales are not chromatic like the major and minor scales used in occidental music. It is the quartertone, which makes this music so unique and expandable. Because of this quality, Arab music has a variety of scales unfamiliar to the Western ear. These scales represent a mode, a human emotion, or a feeling. Some are suitable for morning listening, some for late night. These scales are called Maqaams (positions). Some of the common Maqaams are Hijaz, Bayaat, Saba, Siga and Kurd, and most Arabic songs utilize several Maqaam to express the various emotions introduced in the poetry of each song.

The historic origin of this music is extremely heterogeneous. Early Arab musicians borrowed from the Egyptians, Assyrians, and Sumerians. Many of the instruments now used are direct descendents of those that appeared in wall paintings and carvings of those civilizations. Greek music theory was translated into Arabic in the 8th and 9th centuries as the science of music became one of the courses of the quadrivium, and was studied by most students of the period.

Seven treatises of music theory appeared under the name of Al-Kindi (d. 874) and three have survived in print. After Al-Kindi there was a gap of about a century in documentation. Following Al-Kindi, the great theorist Al-Farabi published his book Al-Kitaab Al-Kabeer which included immense and detailed information on music and music instruments of that era. Being a good mathematician and physicist, Al-Farabi was able to handle the physical bases of sounds by making valuable contributions to physiological acoustics, i.e. the sensation of tone, which is part of Greek music theory.

The following are some of the most popular instruments of Arab music:

OUD, al-ëOud (meaning "wood") is a highly ornate instrument made of wood with six double strings, pear-shaped body and non-fretted neck. It is plucked with an eagle feather or a pick. The ëOud originated in Ancient Egypt and was later adopted by the Persians, who brought it to the Arabian Peninsula. The great Iraqi musician, Zeriab, introduced the 'Oud to Spain and later to Europe when he sought refuge in Andalusia.

QANOUN: al-Qanoun (meaning "rule", "law") is a descendant of the old Egyptian Harp. The form of the Qanoun is a trapezoid-shaped flat board over which 81 strings are stretched in groups of three, with 24 treble chords consisting of three chords to each note with movable frets called ëUrab. The Qanoun is placed flat on the knees of the musician: the strings are plucked with the finger or with two plectra, one plectrum attached to the forefinger of each hand plucking separate octaves.

NAY: A Persian word used to describe a single reed pipe. It is one of the oldest instruments in the Middle East. The Nay has 6 holes in the front for the fingers to play, and 1 hole underneath for the thumb. Fine, mellow tones are produced by blowing gently through the orifice of the tube while manipulating the fingers and thumbs: the force of blowing scales (Maqaams) generates octaves by utilizing Nays of various lengths.

MIJWIZ: (means dual) is a type of double reed clarinet played by breathing gently through a circular aperture and by manipulating the fingers over the holes down the front of the tube. The sound it produces may reflect a musical dialogue between two moods

DAF: also known as the Rikk, which corresponds to the English tambourine. It consists of a round frame covered on one side by goat or fish skin, with pairs of metal discs set into the frame that jingle when the hand strikes it. The sounds of this percussion instrument set the rhythm of Arab music.

TABLAH /Darbouka: is also a percussion instrument; made of clay or metal with goat or fish skin stretched over its larger opening. It is placed on the leg; beaten with both hands yielding different sounds: when beaten near the edge it produces sounds like (tic), or near the middle the sound is more like (dom), establishing several rhythmic scales to accompany the meter of sounds produced by accompanied instruments.

Gift Giving in the Arab Countries

Tradition dictates that if you admire an item belonging to another person in an Arab country, it will be automatically given to you. Now technically, you may say, ìThat necklace on you is lovely,î but not, ìWhat a lovely necklace that is.î The inference is that you admire someoneís taste as a pleasant object, but not admire it because you want such a thing. Please remember to try not, either directly or indirectly, to give an Arab person cause to think you would like any of their possessions, including jewelry, clothing, souvenirs, etc. This can result in cultural misunderstanding and embarrassment. This can also cause you to be the recipient of an article that you really may not want! Please be very careful of this traditional practice in this culture. Thank you.

PLEASE BE FOREWARNED!

When traveling in a foreign country, you are subject to the laws of that country. In most countries of the world it is illegal to deal in drugs. If you are caught in possession of illegal drugs, you will be arrested. Drug dealing, particularly in the Arab world, is a very serious offense and the penalties are severe. Foreign jails are not pleasant places ñ most require that you supply your own food and necessities.

Do not rely on our consular corps to bail you out. They are there for diplomatic purposes, and some help. They do not loan money or buy tickets. In most cases they will only be able to visit you in jail to verify that you are not being treated inhumanely, receive due process of the local law, and pass messages to family.

It is reported that AIDS is widespread throughout the world. We urge you to take all precautions in this regard.

Removing antiquities from most countries is not allowed any longer. Do not rely on the advice of the seller of antiquities. If you plan to buy antiquities, check with proper authorities.

We would like you to abide by the laws of the countries we visit and have a fun time while you are there.

Thank you.